[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
about June 1. April/May sowings bolt in July/August,: after June 1, bolting won't happen until the next
spring, but germination won't happen without watering. One solution is soaking the seeds overnight, rinsing
them frequently until they begin to sprout, and fluid drilling them.
_Spacing:_ The heads become huge when started in June. Sow in rows 4 feet apart and thin gradually until
the rosettes are 3 inches in diameter, then thin to 18 inches apart.
_Irrigation:_ Without a drop of moisture the plants, even as tiny seedlings, will grow steadily but slowly all
summer, as long as no other crop is invading their root zone. The only time I had trouble was when the
endive row was too close to an aggressive row of yellow crookneck squash. About August, the squash roots
began invading the endive's territory and the endive got wilty.
A light side-dressing of complete organic fertilizer or compost in late September will grow the hugest plants
imaginable.
_Varieties:_ Curly types seem more tolerant to rain and frost during winter than broad-leaf Batavian
varieties. I prefer President (TSC).
Herbs
Most perennial and biennial herbs are actually weeds and wild hillside shrubs from Mediterranean climates
similar to that of Southern California. They are adapted to growing on winter rainfall and surviving seven to
nine months without rainfall every summer. In our climate, merely giving them a little more elbow room than
usually offered, thorough weeding, and side-dressing the herb garden with a little compost in fall is enough
coddling. Annuals such as dill and cilantro are also very drought tolerant. Basil, however, needs considerable
moisture.
Kale
Depending on the garden for a significant portion of my annual caloric intake has gradually refined my eating
Chapter 5. How to Grow It with Less Irrigation: A Z 28
Gardening Without Irrigation: or Without Much, Anyway
habits. Years ago I learned to like cabbage salads as much as lettuce. Since lettuce freezes out many winters
(19-21 degree F), this adjustment has proved very useful. Gradually I began to appreciate kale, too, and now
value it as a salad green far more than cabbage. This personal adaptation has proved very pro-survival,
because even savoy cabbages do not grow as readily or yield nearly as much as kale. And kale is a tad more
cold hardy than even savoy cabbage.
You may be surprised to learn that kale produces more complete protein per area occupied per time involved
than any legume, including alfalfa. If it is steamed with potatoes and then mashed, the two vegetables
complement and flavor each other. Our region could probably subsist quite a bit more healthfully than at
present on potatoes and kale. The key to enjoying kale as a salad component is varietal choice, preparation,
and using the right parts of the plant. Read on.
_Sowing date:_ With irrigation, fast-growing kale is usually started in midsummer for use in fall and winter.
But kale is absolutely biennial started in March or April, it will not bolt until the next spring. The
water-wise gardener can conveniently sow kale while cool, moist soil simplifies germination. Starting this
early also produces a deep root system before the soil dries much, and a much taller, very useful central stalk
on oleracea types, while early sown Siberian (Napa) varieties tend to form multiple rosettes by autumn, also
useful at harvest time.
_Spacing: _Grow like broccoli, spaced 4 feet apart.
_Irrigation:_ Without any water, the somewhat stunted plants will survive the summer to begin rapid growth
as soon as fall rains resume. With the help of occasional fertigation they grow lushly and are enormous by
September. Either way, there still will be plenty of kale during fall and winter.
_Harvest:_ Bundles of strong-flavored, tough, large leaves are sold in supermarkets but are the worst-eating
part of the plant. If chopped finely enough, big raw leaves can be masticated and tolerated by people with
good teeth. However, the tiny leaves are far tenderer and much milder. The more rosettes developed on
Siberian kales, the more little leaves there are to be picked. By pinching off the central growing tip in October
and then gradually stripping off the large shading leaves, _oleracea_ varieties may be encouraged to put out
dozens of clusters of small, succulent leaves at each leaf notch along the central stalk. The taller the stalk
grown during summer, the more of these little leaves there will be. Only home gardeners can afford the time
to hand pick small leaves.
_Varieties:_ I somewhat prefer the flavor of Red Russian to the ubiquitous green Siberian, but Red Russian is
very slightly less cold hardy. Westland Winter (TSC) and Konserva (JSS) are tall European oleracea
varieties. Winterbor F1 (JSS, TSC) is also excellent. The dwarf "Scotch" kales, blue or green, sold by many
American seed companies are less vigorous types that don't produce nearly as many gourmet little leaves.
Dwarfs in any species tend to have dwarfed root systems.
Kohlrabi (Giant)
Spring-sown market kohlrabi are usually harvested before hot weather makes them get woody. Irrigation is
not required if they're given a little extra elbow room. With ordinary varieties, try thinning to 5 inches apart
in rows 2 to 3 feet apart and harvest by thinning alternate plants. Given this additional growing room, they
may not get woody until midsummer. On my irrigated, intensive bed I always sow some more on August 1,
to have tender bulbs in autumn.
Kohlrabi was once grown as European fodder crop; slow-growing farmers, varieties grow huge like
rutabagas. These field types have been crossed with table types to make "giant" table varieties that really suit
dry gardening. What to do with a giant kohlrabi (or any bulb getting overblown)? Peel, grate finely, add
Chapter 5. How to Grow It with Less Irrigation: A Z 29
Gardening Without Irrigation: or Without Much, Anyway
chopped onion, dress with olive oil and black pepper, toss, and enjoy this old Eastern European mainstay.
_Sowing date:_ Sow giant varieties during April, as late as possible while still getting a foot-tall plant before [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
zanotowane.pl doc.pisz.pl pdf.pisz.pl aikidobyd.xlx.pl
about June 1. April/May sowings bolt in July/August,: after June 1, bolting won't happen until the next
spring, but germination won't happen without watering. One solution is soaking the seeds overnight, rinsing
them frequently until they begin to sprout, and fluid drilling them.
_Spacing:_ The heads become huge when started in June. Sow in rows 4 feet apart and thin gradually until
the rosettes are 3 inches in diameter, then thin to 18 inches apart.
_Irrigation:_ Without a drop of moisture the plants, even as tiny seedlings, will grow steadily but slowly all
summer, as long as no other crop is invading their root zone. The only time I had trouble was when the
endive row was too close to an aggressive row of yellow crookneck squash. About August, the squash roots
began invading the endive's territory and the endive got wilty.
A light side-dressing of complete organic fertilizer or compost in late September will grow the hugest plants
imaginable.
_Varieties:_ Curly types seem more tolerant to rain and frost during winter than broad-leaf Batavian
varieties. I prefer President (TSC).
Herbs
Most perennial and biennial herbs are actually weeds and wild hillside shrubs from Mediterranean climates
similar to that of Southern California. They are adapted to growing on winter rainfall and surviving seven to
nine months without rainfall every summer. In our climate, merely giving them a little more elbow room than
usually offered, thorough weeding, and side-dressing the herb garden with a little compost in fall is enough
coddling. Annuals such as dill and cilantro are also very drought tolerant. Basil, however, needs considerable
moisture.
Kale
Depending on the garden for a significant portion of my annual caloric intake has gradually refined my eating
Chapter 5. How to Grow It with Less Irrigation: A Z 28
Gardening Without Irrigation: or Without Much, Anyway
habits. Years ago I learned to like cabbage salads as much as lettuce. Since lettuce freezes out many winters
(19-21 degree F), this adjustment has proved very useful. Gradually I began to appreciate kale, too, and now
value it as a salad green far more than cabbage. This personal adaptation has proved very pro-survival,
because even savoy cabbages do not grow as readily or yield nearly as much as kale. And kale is a tad more
cold hardy than even savoy cabbage.
You may be surprised to learn that kale produces more complete protein per area occupied per time involved
than any legume, including alfalfa. If it is steamed with potatoes and then mashed, the two vegetables
complement and flavor each other. Our region could probably subsist quite a bit more healthfully than at
present on potatoes and kale. The key to enjoying kale as a salad component is varietal choice, preparation,
and using the right parts of the plant. Read on.
_Sowing date:_ With irrigation, fast-growing kale is usually started in midsummer for use in fall and winter.
But kale is absolutely biennial started in March or April, it will not bolt until the next spring. The
water-wise gardener can conveniently sow kale while cool, moist soil simplifies germination. Starting this
early also produces a deep root system before the soil dries much, and a much taller, very useful central stalk
on oleracea types, while early sown Siberian (Napa) varieties tend to form multiple rosettes by autumn, also
useful at harvest time.
_Spacing: _Grow like broccoli, spaced 4 feet apart.
_Irrigation:_ Without any water, the somewhat stunted plants will survive the summer to begin rapid growth
as soon as fall rains resume. With the help of occasional fertigation they grow lushly and are enormous by
September. Either way, there still will be plenty of kale during fall and winter.
_Harvest:_ Bundles of strong-flavored, tough, large leaves are sold in supermarkets but are the worst-eating
part of the plant. If chopped finely enough, big raw leaves can be masticated and tolerated by people with
good teeth. However, the tiny leaves are far tenderer and much milder. The more rosettes developed on
Siberian kales, the more little leaves there are to be picked. By pinching off the central growing tip in October
and then gradually stripping off the large shading leaves, _oleracea_ varieties may be encouraged to put out
dozens of clusters of small, succulent leaves at each leaf notch along the central stalk. The taller the stalk
grown during summer, the more of these little leaves there will be. Only home gardeners can afford the time
to hand pick small leaves.
_Varieties:_ I somewhat prefer the flavor of Red Russian to the ubiquitous green Siberian, but Red Russian is
very slightly less cold hardy. Westland Winter (TSC) and Konserva (JSS) are tall European oleracea
varieties. Winterbor F1 (JSS, TSC) is also excellent. The dwarf "Scotch" kales, blue or green, sold by many
American seed companies are less vigorous types that don't produce nearly as many gourmet little leaves.
Dwarfs in any species tend to have dwarfed root systems.
Kohlrabi (Giant)
Spring-sown market kohlrabi are usually harvested before hot weather makes them get woody. Irrigation is
not required if they're given a little extra elbow room. With ordinary varieties, try thinning to 5 inches apart
in rows 2 to 3 feet apart and harvest by thinning alternate plants. Given this additional growing room, they
may not get woody until midsummer. On my irrigated, intensive bed I always sow some more on August 1,
to have tender bulbs in autumn.
Kohlrabi was once grown as European fodder crop; slow-growing farmers, varieties grow huge like
rutabagas. These field types have been crossed with table types to make "giant" table varieties that really suit
dry gardening. What to do with a giant kohlrabi (or any bulb getting overblown)? Peel, grate finely, add
Chapter 5. How to Grow It with Less Irrigation: A Z 29
Gardening Without Irrigation: or Without Much, Anyway
chopped onion, dress with olive oil and black pepper, toss, and enjoy this old Eastern European mainstay.
_Sowing date:_ Sow giant varieties during April, as late as possible while still getting a foot-tall plant before [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]